Welcome the the Q & A series.
Over the last few years of running In the Folds, I have struggled with the idea of sending an email newsletter. At a time when we are constantly bombarded with information from all different directions, I kept wondering what I could create that would be truly valuable to the community that I serve.
I want to create something that you will look forward to receiving, something that will encourage you to sit down with a cup of tea and take it all in, not another piece of content that will interrupt your day, but something that will inspire and encourage you on your handmade journey.
The Q & A series - What it’s all about
The format I settled on is the Q & A series, an opportunity to share the questions I often receive in my inbox, with all of you. I realised that my answer to one person's question is a chance for us all to learn something new and an opportunity to continue the conversation about the many different parts of the process of making our own clothes.
It is my hope that this series takes us to interesting and unexpected places. I will be sending the newsletter weekly for the time-being (this is something I might adjust after seeing what the response to the newsletter is) and I hope you choose to continue on this journey with me.
If you have a question you would like to ask, please scroll to the bottom of this email to find the link to the question page. I look forward to hearing from you!
THE Q & A SERIES - LENGTHENING THE COLLINS TOP (WITH FULL BUS ADJUSTMENT)
I am in the midst of making your lovely Collins top pattern (which is so well drafted!) but I am stuck. I just went through all the steps of a FBA (full bust adjustment), finished truing and then realized I also wanted to lengthen it considerably.
Would it make sense to lengthen the front via your tutorial but true the side seams from below the new dart- maybe the bottom leg? It seems if I true again for lengthening from the top to the hem I’ll mess up the shape of the dart.
- Melissa
Hi Melissa,
Thank you for getting in touch, and for your lovely email. I am more than happy to help you with this! Always a good idea to get a second opinion when you can, and I agree the Collins top FBA does involve a bit of work, so you don't want that going to waste!
I just printed the front piece with the dart added from the FBA tutorial and had a look what happens for both options for lengthening.
OPTION 1
Add the desired length to the pattern using this tutorial. Fold out the dart (the way you would have done in the FBA tutorial to create the dart shaping) and then true the seam from the top of the seam. Cut the new seam line and then open up dart.
OPTION 2
Add the desired length to the pattern using this tutorial. True the seam from the lower dart arm.
THE VERDICT
As you will see in the above illustration, the difference between the two approaches is minimal (barely noticeable in fact). By trueing from the top of the seam the dart shaping wasn't impacted. I'd say you can choose whichever option you feel more comfortable with as the difference is only about 2-3 millimetres.
Happy sewing,
Emily
P.S. Don't have a question, but found this newsletter helpful? I'd love to hear from you! Get in touch and say hi.
