New pattern in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine : The pleated skirt

Posted on March 2, 2017

I am excited to let you all know that I have just released another pattern in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine! It's a pleated skirt, which features stitched down knife pleats, slanted pockets (that are deep enough to keep your hands nice and snug and your belongings nice and safe), shaped waistband, invisible zip and a hem facing.

I must say, this is my favourite of all the patterns so far. I didn't think I was one to wear this kind of style / silhouette, but once the sample was made up, I really didn't want to give it away! The fabric I used was a beautiful linen / cotton blend from The Drapery (a lovely little fabric retailer based in South Australia, with a great online store), which made it even harder to part with.

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Talking about : A new job, a little less time, a survey (and a giveaway!)

Posted on February 27, 2017

I recently started a new part-time job, which unfortunately means a bit less time in the studio for me. It has been a difficult adjustment to make over the past few weeks, but thankfully now the fog seems to be lifting, and there does seem to be enough room in my brain, and room in my day to balance my business and my job (and even my relationship and friendships on good days too!)

While adjusting to my new schedule, I have been thinking about how I should be spending my time. As time is now more limited than it was before, I already find myself constantly asking myself "Is this a priority?" or "Is this really how I should be spending the 4 hours I have at the studio today?" (Some good definitely comes out of being pushed for time!) This has got me questioning what kinds of blog posts I should be writing, what patterns I should be producing, and overall what types of content I should be creating for the people who buy my patterns and visit my blog. I have been ruminating over this for a couple of weeks now, and then it occurred to me, why don't I just ask? It's all well and good for me to sit here bending my brain trying to put myself in your shoes, but at the end of the day, I am not the one reading my blog, or using my patterns, you are!

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The Acton : A little pocket pattern hack

Posted on February 14, 2017

I made a new Acton dress lately (photos to come eventually... when I finally psyche myself up to get in front of the camera) and while I have been wearing it, there has been a little thing that I think I will change next time I make an Acton. I'd love to extend the pocket pieces so that they can be stitched to the dress waist seam and then always stay in the front of the dress (sometimes they like to flip towards the back skirt). This was something I thought about when developing the pattern, but because there isn't one set place where people like their pockets (as we are all different height) I worried it would make it more challenging for people, if they felt an adjustment needed to be made. 

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Notes on : Notching patterns

Posted on February 10, 2017

During the Acton sew-along, I showed you a range of different alterations you may need to make to your Acton dress pattern.

As I was creating the tutorials, I realised that I probably should provide some information on how to notch patterns correctly. Sometimes, when making alterations to patterns, you may displace a notch or two, so today I will show you how to re-mark notches, as well as add notches to your own patterns (if you are drafting from scratch).

Just in case you have no idea what I'm talking about, I thought I'd start by letting you know what a notch is, and then how to use them. 

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Pattern hack : How to add a full skirt to the Acton dress

Posted on February 9, 2017

Hello, hello, I hope you enjoyed the Acton sew-along! Today I thought I'd show you a little pattern hack. A customer got in touch to tell me she was planning on using the Acton pattern to make her bridesmaids dresses (swoon!) and wanted to know how she could go about adding a full circle skirt, instead of the standard A-line skirt (view A). I thought it would be a good tutorial to share on the blog, as I'm sure many of you would love an Acton with a full skirt, while some of you may also be interested in how you add a full circle skirt to a pattern that doesn't have a straight waist seam - and this tutorial fits the bill for both!

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The Acton sew-along : Finishing up (view B)

Posted on February 7, 2017

Welcome back to the Acton sew-along! Today we will be finishing up the wrap version of the dress (view B). 

You should have assembled the bodice lining at the same time as you assembled the bodice. If you haven't done it already, check out this post for how to do it (it's exactly the same as the bodice). 

Take the bodice lining and with right side facing down, fold back the centre back seam allowance 2cm (¾in) and press flat on both sides.

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The Acton sew-along : Attaching the straps (view B)

Posted on February 6, 2017

Over the past few weeks we have been working our way through the Acton dress for the sew-along. It will finally come to an end this week, as we finish up the wrap version. I'd love to hear what you have thought of these posts, do you find them useful? 

Last week we assembled the bodice (it's the same process as the A-line version) and attached the skirt to the bodice. Before working tour way through this post, you will need to insert the invisible zip. The tutorial is for View A, but the process is exactly the same - you just have different back bodice pieces to attach. 

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The Acton sew-along : Adding waist ties

Posted on February 3, 2017

Welcome back to the Acton sew-along! Yesterday we got started on the wrap version of the Acton dress, and today we'll be continuing by adding the waist ties and finishing up the side seams on the wrap. 

Take the waist tie pieces and fold in half lengthways, right sides together. Stitch along the length of the strap with a 1cm (⅜in) seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance down to 3-4mm (⅛in) before using a safety pin (or bodkin) to turn right side out. Use a pin to tuck one short edge of the tie inside itself and stitch close to the edge to enclose.

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The Acton sew-along : Attaching the bodice to the skirt (View B)

Posted on February 2, 2017

If you have been following along with the Acton sew-along, you will have seen that yesterday we finished up View A (the A-line version).

Now it's time to start sewing view B (the wrap skirt version), which I am very excited as I must admit it is my personal favourite!

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The Acton sew-along : Hemming

Posted on February 1, 2017

If you have been following along with the Acton sew-along, you will know we have almost finished sewing the Acton with A-line skirt (view A), which means that tomorrow we will be starting the Acton view B (wrap skirt version)! 

This post is a quick one, as all that we have left to do is the hem.

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The Acton sew-along : Attaching the bodice lining

Posted on January 31, 2017

One of my favourite things about the Acton is the lined bodice. It really helps you get a beautiful finish on the inside, and aligns well with the dressy and glamorous feel of the dress. In todays' post for the Acton sew-along, I'll be showing you how to attach the lining to the bodice. 

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The Acton sew-along : Making and attaching the straps

Posted on January 30, 2017

Over the last few days in the Acton sew-along, we have assembled the bodiceattached the pockets and assembled the skirt, joined the bodice to the skirt and inserted the invisible zip. Today we will be making and attaching the straps. 

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The Acton sew-along : Inserting the invisible zip

Posted on January 27, 2017

In yesterday's post for the Acton sew-along, we joined the bodice to skirt to form a dress, and today we'll be inserting the invisible zip. For any of you who just ran away screaming, please come back! Once you know how to do them (and with a few little tricks under your belt, which I'll be showing you today) they really are a piece of cake. 

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The Acton sew-along : How to attach the bodice to the skirt (view A)

Posted on January 26, 2017

Over the last couple of days, I have shown you how to assemble the bodice and skirt of the Acton (view A). In today's post for the Acton sew-along, we'll be attaching the bodice to the skirt.

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The Acton-sew along : Sewing in-seam pockets

Posted on January 25, 2017

Hello! Welcome back to the Acton sew-along! Yesterday, we finally got started on our bodice, and today we're onto the skirt. 

View A has in-seam pockets (pockets hidden in the side seams) because I love to put pockets in every dress I can! This post will guide you through inserting the pockets with a standard finish (zig zag or overlocking), if you are using a really soft or flimsy fabric, I would suggest using french seams instead. The process is a little more involved, but you will achieve a really beautiful finish. You can check out that tutorial here

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The Acton sew-along : Construct the bodice (sewing princess seams)

Posted on January 24, 2017

I can't believe that I am saying this, but it is finally time to start sewing today! If you have been following the Acton sew-along, you will know that I have gone through A LOT of alterations (check them out here). When it comes to the Acton, fit is important, and I really wanted you all to feel confident to make any alterations you require. 

But by now, you should have printed the patternmade the alterations required to the pattern, got some inspiration, cut your fabric and be ready to sew.

We'll be starting with the bodice. You will notice that seam allowances vary in my patterns. This is to help you get a really nice finish. Different seam types require different finishes. For example, when putting in a zip, you will want a 2cm (3/4in) seam allowance, to get a really nice finish, while around an armhole or neckline (which is quite a sharp curve), 1cm (3/8in) will work much better. So be careful to check wjat seam allowance is required for each step. 

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The Acton sew-along : 6 tips for sewing with silk (or other delicate fabrics)

Posted on January 23, 2017

When the Acton pattern was in testing, a few of the testers ran into some problems working with silk (or similar shifty fabrics), which got me thinking that it would be a good idea to do a post in the Acton sew-along with some tips, as there are a number of things you can do to make life a lot easier for yourself when working with silk. 

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The Acton sew-along : How to grade between pattern sizes

Posted on January 20, 2017

For many women, your measurements will range across several sizes, and you will need to grade between sizes after you print your pattern. For example, in most patterns, my hip measurement is usually a size or two bigger than my waist measurement, which means I need to grade up from the waist to the hip to account for this difference. It's a really easy adjustment to make, and makes the world of difference when achieving a great fit (and that's one of the main reasons we all sew, right?)

So today, to coincide with the Acton sew-along, I thought I'd show you how it's done!

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The Acton sew-along : Small Bust Adjustment

Posted on January 19, 2017

Today, for the Acton sew-along, I'll be showing you how to do a small bust adjustment. Although the pattern I have used for the example is the Acton dress, you can adapt this tutorial to any pattern that includes princess seams.  

Most indie pattern companies (including In the Folds) draft for a B cup bust. There are of course exceptions to this rule (such as Cashmerette and Colette), so make sure you check on your pattern before assuming the bust cup size.

This means that if your bust cup size is smaller than a B you will need to do a Small Bust Adjustment, otherwise known as a SBA, and if your bust cup size is larger than a B you will need to do a Full Bust Adjustment or FBA

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The Acton sew-along :

Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on princess panels

Posted on January 18, 2017

Over the past week or two, I've been running through a number of pattern adjustments (such as making a toile or lengthening or shortening the bodice) for the Acton sew-along. Now it's time to get to the juicy ones - the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) and the Small Bust Adjustment / SBA (coming tomorrow). 

Most indie pattern companies (including In the Folds) draft for a B cup bust. There are of course exceptions to this rule (such as Cashmerette and Colette Patterns), so make sure you check on your pattern before assuming the bust cup size.

This means that if your bust cub size is smaller than a B you will need to do a Small Bust Adjustment, otherwise known as a SBA (tutorial coming tomorrow), and if your bust cup size is larger than a B you will need to do a Full Bust Adjustment or FBA. 

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The Acton sew-along : Shorten the bodice (above the bust)

Posted on January 17

Over the last few days we’ve been talking about shortening and lengthening the bodice in the Acton sew-along (the principle is exactly the same if you would like to add or remove length from the skirt), and today I’ll be finishing off these posts by showing you how to shorten the bodice above the bust line. By referring to your toile, you should be able to tell where you need to add length - it could be from below the bust line, above the bust line, or even a bit from both.

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The Acton sew-along : Shorten the bodice (below the bust)

Posted on January 16, 2017

Last week I showed you how to lengthen the bodice on the Acton dress (or any pattern that's similar) for the Acton sew-along, and now it's time for me to show you how to shorten the bodice. 

To start, trace a copy of the CENTRE FRONT BODICE and SIDE FRONT BODIE of the Acton pattern (it's always a good idea to trace a copy of the pattern, rather than using the original, in case you make a mistake. Although with a digital pattern you can always print another copy if necessary!), including all pattern markings (in this case the stitch line, grainlines and notches).

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The Acton sew-along : How to lengthen the bodice (above the bust)

Posted on January 13, 2017

If you have been following the Acton sew-along, you will know that we're now onto making pattern alterations! The bodice of the Acton is quite fitted, so making some alterations to get the bodice just right for you, is really important (if the pattern doesn't fit you straight out of the packet).

I know a lot of people get quite daunted about pattern alterations, but the ones required for the Acton aren't too scary at all, as it doesn't have sleeves or shoulder seams - which simplifies it quite a bit. I showed you how to make a toile a few days ago, and now from doing a fitting, you should know what changes you need to make. Lengthening or shortening the bodice is a common adjustment to make, so I thought I'd show you how to add length in two different spots. By referring to your toile, you should be able to tell where you need to add length - it could be from below the bust line, above the bust line, or even a bit from both. 

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The Acton sew-along : How to lengthen the bodice

Posted on January 12, 2017

Welcome back to the Acton Sew-along.

In yesterday's tutorial, I gave you all the reasons why you should always make a toile (especially when you're making a fitted garment like the Acton) and showed you how to go about it. In the next few tutorials, I'm going to show you what to do if you have realised that you need to shorten or lengthen the bodice. This is probably one of the simplest pattern alterations you can make, so please don't be daunted by it if you've realised that you'll get a better fit by changing the length of your bodice. 

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The Acton sew-along : Making a toile

Posted on January 11, 2017

Welcome back to the Acton sew-along! Now that we've taken our measurements and worked out what size (or sizes) matches our measurements the closest, it is time to make a toile!

WHAT IS A TOILE?

A toile (also known as a ‘muslin’) is basically a draft version of a garment. A toile is normally made from a cheaper fabric, so that you can test the fit of a particular garment before cutting into your real (and normally more expensive) fabric. 

It is best to choose a fabric to toile in, that is similar to what you plan to make the actual garment in. If you are using a lovely sandwashed silk, then you will need something with a similar handle and drape as the silk, so you can get a good idea of what the final garment will look like.

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The Acton sew-along : Selecting your size

 Posted on January 10, 2017

To kick off the Acton sew-along series, we'll be talking about selecting your size.

The Acton sewing pattern is available in sizes A - K (approximately equivalent to AU size 6-24).

TAKE YOUR MEASUREMENTS

To select the appropriate size, first take your measurements.

It is best to take your measurements while wearing only underwear, or otherwise very tight clothing, so that you can get true measurements. Get someone to help you, if you can. Otherwise take your measurements in front of the mirror, so that you can check that your tape measure remains parallel to the floor, and is not twisted, as it is wrapped around your body.

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The Acton sew-along is coming!

Posted on January 9, 2017

I am officially back in the studio today (I did do a few sneaky hours in here last week) and getting myself and my little business organised for 2017. I am so excited about all that I have planned, with the first thing being the sew-along for the Acton, which will start this week! 

Will you be sewing along with me?

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New Pattern : The Beach Coverup - in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine

Posted on December 5, 2016

It just ticked over into Summer here in the Southern Hemisphere and I'm celebrating the turn of season with the release of a new pattern in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine!

If you have been following my blog this year, you would have seen the Sweater Dress we released together in Winter and then the Peplum Top that followed in Spring. And the best bit is, you can download them all for free! 

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New images : The Rushcutter

Posted on November 29, 2016

When I decided to do a shoot for the release of the Acton dress, I thought it would be a good time to get some images of the Rushcutter too! So today I'd show some of them too, as you may have missed the updates to the product listing.

For View A I chose to use a beautiful mid-weight denim. Really, since I made my own denim Rushcutter, it's just hard to think about using anything else!

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The Acton : Tester round-up

Posted on November 15, 2016

As you have probably seen by now, last week I released The Acton dress pattern. This pattern was a long time in the works, as I really wanted to fine tune my process, so there was  a lot of learning and experimenting to be done. I tested the pattern earlier this year, along with some incredible makers, and today is the day that I can finally share these pictures with you (I know they are all pumped to finally share their Actons too!) and a few of the comments that were made about the pattern.

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The Acton pattern is finally here!

Posted on November 8, 2016

I am so excited to let you know that the Acton pattern is finally here!

For those of you who have been following along with me for a while, you will know that this lady has been in the works for a long time! But I must say that after all the hours spent on it, I couldn't be happier. She is a real beauty and I am ecstatic to be sharing her with you today.

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How to : Lengthen a pattern

Posted on November 4, 2016

You may have seen that earlier this week I did a post on "How to Shorten a pattern," so today I thought I'd do a post on how to lengthen a pattern! The principle is exactly the same, you just need to add access length, instead of removing it. 

As I said in the previous post, sometimes you can simply add some length to the hem of a garment, I would use this method in the case of a straight skirt, sleeve or trousers. But there are times when you may want to add the excess length to the interior of a pattern piece, so that the piece still fits properly with the rest of the pattern. For example, if you wanted to lengthen a sleeve that had a cuff, you wouldn't want to just add the extra length to the bottom. You would be extending the length of the placket too, and maybe even changing the shape of the sleeve overall. This is also the case if you have a pattern with an interesting shape - such as an A-line dress. You would not want to just add the extra length to the bottom of an A-line dress, as you could end up with a shape far more extreme than you anticipated!

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How to : Shorten a pattern

Posted on November 1, 2016

There are times you are going to want to shorten or lengthen a pattern, and I thought I'd show you how to do that today.

Sometimes, you can simply cut off some length from the hem of a garment, but there are times when you may want to remove (or add) the excess length to the interior of a pattern piece, so that the piece still fits properly with the rest of the pattern. For example, if you wanted to shorten a sleeve that had a cuff, you wouldn't want to just lop the excess off the bottom. The sleeve would no longer fit the cuff correctly, and you could also lose important details like the placket position. This is also the case if you have a pattern with an interesting shape - such as an A-line dress. You would not want to just cut the excess off the bottom of an A-line dress, as it is likely you would lose the shape of the A-line. 

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Pattern hack : Add sleeves to the peplum top (or any other sleeveless top pattern)

Posted on October 27, 2016

You may have seen (or even already made) the Peplum Top that I released a couple of months ago in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine.

When it was first released, a number of people asked whether sleeves could be added, and I thought it would be a great tutorial to do, as I'm sure for a lot of you there are sleeveless patterns you would love to add sleeves to. This tutorial will walk you through adding sleeves to this particular pattern, but could be used for almost  any sleeveless pattern.

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Pattern release : The Peplum Top

Posted on October 25, 2016

You may have noticed that recently I have been releasing seasonal patterns in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine. The first one I made was a sweater dress (perfect for those of you in the northern hemisphere) and then just recently our Spring pattern was released - a nice little peplum top, perfect for warm summer days. 

The best bit about this collaboration, is that the patterns are free! You can just jump on their site, browse through their pattern archive and take your pick.

This pattern is a nice easy one - sewing up beautifully in light-weight summer fabrics like cotton, linen, silk or viscose/rayon.

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Are you a photographer or illustrator who loves sewing?

Posted on October 24, 2016

As a lot of you would know, I recently hit my one year in business milestone. I'm one of those people who, when I hit some kind of big milestone - whether it be a birthday, ten years since finishing high school (this year.... ahhhhhhh!!), even just new years eve, I can't help but look back and reflect on the time that has passed. Which means that this last few weeks has included a lot of reflection time as I think about how far this little business has come, as well as what hurdles I need to overcome to keep this little gal going. 

The main thing that keeps coming to mind is that I just can't do it all. No matter how much I think I can, no matter how diligent I am, no matter how many hours I work, I just cannot do it all, and I think that (maybe) I have finally accepted that. If I want this business to grow, it can't be up to me to do every little task involved in the process. There is truly not enough hours in the day, and to be honest. I started 2016 thinking I could release 6 patterns in the year. You may have noticed that I have not even released one (except for a couple of patterns in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine)! Obviously something is not working how it should.

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A round-up of the most popular posts from the past 12 months

Posted on October 10, 2016

As this week is a time to celebrate the first birthday of In the Folds, I am also seeing it as a good time to reflect on all that I have done this year. It's been a very busy year, with a range of different projects and collaborations and a fair number of blog posts. I dived into my blog analytics today so that I could share the 10 most popular posts of this last year. 

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Talking About: 1 year in business

Posted on October 7, 2016

I cannot believe today marks the day that exactly one year ago I launched In the Folds as well as The Rushcutter dress pattern. Part of me feels like no time has passed at all, while the other part feels like I have been steering this ship for ten years! I cannot believe how naively I took the plunge into starting my own business - and how much learning I have had to do this past year just to survive. I thought that a good way to wrap up the year would be a little reflective post about all that I have learned this first year, as a reminder to myself about how far I have come, and hopefully some tips for you if you are about to start this crazy journey too. 

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How to: Draft an all-in-facing

Posted on August 3, 2016

In the last couple of weeks I have been showing you how to draft a simple summer tank top. Today I thought it would be a good time to show you how to finish the armholes and neckline. 

There are generally two methods used to finish the armholes and neckline of a sleeveless top - you couldfinish them with bias binding (shown in the image above), or draft a facing. I use both variations and make my choice depending on the fabric I am using and the style of the top (or dress) I am making. 

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How to : Draft a top with yoke

Posted on July 27, 2016

Recently I have been well and truly in summer sewing mode, as I have been working on another pattern for Peppermint magazine (see my first pattern for Peppermint here). As it's a quarterly publication, the next release will be in Spring, which makes me feel as though spring is just around the corner. And makes me very excited! I am not a winter person at all, so I have been very much enjoying pretending it's spring and using luscious linen to make the sample. 

So, to keep the dream alive, that it is actually spring (I know I shouldn't whinge as winter in Sydney is very mild) I thought I'd post a follow up post to the post I did a couple of weeks ago on drafting a summer top.

I thought a good place to start would be with a few simple adjustments you can make to your simple top pattern (or even an existing top pattern you have) to add a bit more interest, starting with adding a yoke. 

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Notes on adding seam allowance

Posted on July 13, 2016

One of the first tutorials I created for this site was about how to add seam allowance to a pattern. If you are going to draft your own patterns, this is really something you are going to need to know how to do (and it's also a greta place to start if you want to learn some basic pattern making principles). In today's tutorial, I'd like to expand on the basics a little. I'd suggest checking out the previous tutorial first if you are unsure how to add seam allowance, and then come back to this tutorial. 

I did work experience with a local fashion designer while I was at university. One day a week I would go to her studio and help out with whatever tasks she needed help with. I learned a lot about things like how to cut fabric, how to trace patterns etc. (which have all really come in handy), but I'd say the best lesson I learned was about marking seam allowances. I remember being asked to add seam allowance to a particularly strange shaped pattern and realising I didn't know what to do when the pattern came to a point at one side. The designer I was working for told me to think about how the piece needs to sit once the seam is sewn and pressed and that should help me work it out. This now seems very obvious, but at the time it was a real 'wow' moment. From that moment on I never struggled, and it is a way of doing seam allowances that I have brought into my patterns. Over time, I have learned this is not always the way it is done and users of my pattern always get really excited about it and see it as a nice little detail in the process, that helps you achieve a really beautiful and professional finish in your hand-made wares. So I thought I'd share it with you today!

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How to : Draft a simple summer top

Posted on July 6, 2016

Summer is here for all of you lucky people in the northern hemisphere, and I thought it would be a great time to show you how to draft a quick and easy sleeveless summer top! You may wonder what I'm thinking, as most of you know I am based in Sydney, where it is currently quite chilly (well at least as chilly as it gets here), but I really wanted to start showing you how to turn your bodice block into a functional garment (as who really wants to wear a bodice block?) and I haven't shown you how to draft a sleeve yet, so sleeveless top it is!

This is a really simple tutorial and a great place to start if you are trying your hand at pattern drafting.

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Finished project : Winslow Culottes

Posted on July 1, 2016

A month or so ago, Helen from Helen's Closet put out a call for pattern testers for her upcoming pattern. I jumped at the chance as she had recently pattern tested for me and I wanted to return the favour, and (more selfishly) I wanted to force myself to sew something new for myself. These days I get very little free time to sew, as most of my sewing time is consumed by pattern development and sampling for upcoming releases. I do know though that I work very well under pressure, and a deadline is a great way for me to make time to do some (semi)selfish sewing.

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How to : Check and true sewing patterns

Posted on June 22, 2016

I got to the studio today, ready to write a blog post about checking curved seams as a follow up to last week's blog post on creating princess seams, when I realised that I'd actually done it a few months ago (high-five to past self for that one)! Thankfully I realised before I started. So I thought that instead, I'd take this opportunity to talk about checking and truing patterns

It is really important that you ALWAYS check that your patterns fit together correctly before going on ahead and cutting your fabric. It may seem a bit tedious checking each seam, but taking a few minutes to check your patterns at this stage can save you cutting out incorrect patterns and wasting precious time and fabric later on.

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New pattern : The Jersey Dress - in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine

Posted on June 10, 2016

I made a pattern for Peppermint Magazine! I am very excited about this as it is such a great magazine. I was planning to tell you what it's all about, but then I realised they probably do it much better themselves!

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How to: Create princess panels

Posted on June 6, 2016

Including panel lines in a design is a good way to eliminate darts, without losing the fitted shape of the garment. They are also a great way to add interest to a design. There are countless variations, and it is also a great way to include more than one fabric in your design if you would like (if you fancy a splash of contrast fabric like me). 

'Princess panels' are panels that are shaped around the bust, to create a nice fit (without the need for darts), but can also be an interesting design detail. 

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Talking about : Pattern Testing

Posted on June 3, 2016

During the last couple of years there has been a lot of conversation, criticism and debate about the nature of pattern testing within the blogosphere. And I understand why. 

After reading this great piece by Sue (who happens to have recently tested a pattern for me) over at Sewin' Steady (as well as the comments that follow), I decided I wanted to get involved in the conversation in the hope that I can also encourage it to be discussed (and even questioned) in a positive and constructive way.

Pattern testing really is a difficult thing to talk about (I have drafted this blog post at least three times and I’m still not sure it conveys exactly how I feel about it.) as it is a murky area. 

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How to : Move a dart (using the 'Pivot' technique)

Posted on May 30, 2016

Last week I showed you how to relocate a dart using the 'Cut and Spread Technique.' As the title suggests, this technique involves cutting your pattern piece to move the dart (and can also be used to add fullness to a pattern).

If you would prefer not to cut into your pattern (because it is a master copy, or you want to just experiment before finalising anything) it is a good idea to use the 'pivot' technique to move a dart. The outcome is exactly the same, it's just a different way of achieving it. I use both techniques in practice and it totally depends on what I am doing as to which one I choose to use. 

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How to : Move a dart (using the 'Cut + Spread' technique)

Posted on May 9, 2016

Hello, hello! This poor little blog has been very quiet lately, with me being very busy testing my new pattern and working on a couple of freelance jobs. But today is the day that I finally get back into the blogging routine (well that's the plan, at least). As I have so many tutorials to share with you and it's about time that I get going again!

In my last post, I showed you how to draft a bodice block to your own measurements, and today I'd like to show you how to relocate the darts, using the 'Cut and Spread technique.'

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Talking about : Fashion revolution and how to get involved

Posted on April 14, 2016

Have you heard of Fashion Revolution? It's a brilliant organisation that has been established to get us to work together to transform the fashion industry, encouraging each one of us to ask the question 'Who made my clothes?' 

This cause is a very important one to me, and something I believe we all really need to be thinking and talking about - whether we make all our clothes ourselves or choose to buy ready to wear.

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Would you like to pattern test for In the Folds?

Posted on April 11, 2016

I am FINALLY ready to test my next pattern! Are you interested in testing the pattern for me?  

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Talking about: Getting Started

Posted on March 31, 2016

Lately I have been thinking a lot about how to get a business started. I have a couple of friends who are just starting out on their small business journeys, or are just in the pondering phase, and it has got me thinking about the kind of advice I can offer them. 

I am obviously no business guru. This is all very very new to me, as I myself, have only been officially in business for about six months (I also had a little warm up period three months before I officially launched my business). But I know, there are a few things I am very grateful that I thought to do (or was told to do) at the very beginning, and there are also many things that I have learned in the last six months, which I wish I had thought about in the beginning!

So I thought I'd share a few things with you, just in case you are thinking about taking the plunge too!

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A round-up of Rushcutters

Posted on March 15, 2016

When I decided to start a business creating sewing patterns, I never in a million years could have imagined what it would feel like to see people actually using the pattern I made to make a garment. Back then it was a very distant concept, one that I had no way of visualising. Even when I put the pattern through testing, I couldn't imagine what it was going to be like to see women of all different shapes and sizes, styles and tastes, sew up one of my dresses. I sat around nervously waiting for the feedback. I had spent so much time perfecting the pattern, and I was so nervous there would be something I had somehow not thought of or missed. 

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How to : Draft a bodice block

Posted on March 23, 2016

After weeks and weeks (or was it months?) it is time to move on from the Skirt Series, and up to our upper halves! And also for me to get back to blogging. It has been at the top of my To-do list for weeks and weeks, but somehow I've managed to ignore it and find other things to occupy my time (for further reading onwhy to-do lists don't work, check out this post).

So, without any more rambling from me, it is time to draft a bodice block! 

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The Indiesew Blog Tour

Posted on February 22, 2016

If you read my last post or are following me on Instagram, you will know that The Rushcutter is part of the Indiesew Spring Collection (yay!).  

As part of the fun and festivities, there's a blog tour going on, which is really exciting. When Allie first mentioned this, I was a little apprehensive. Free time for sewing has been scarce lately, and I wasn't sure if I would be biting off more than I could chew, if I put my hand up to be involved. But then I remembered that I work wonders with a deadline (hello very late nights, lots of stress, and not washing my hair for three days), and although it could end up being a little stressful, it would be a good excuse to make a couple of things that could fill some holes in my wardrobe. And the collection is beautiful right? So it would be crazy not to get involved!

Which brings me to the fact that today is the day that I get to share what I made from the collection. 

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Introducing the Indiesew Spring Collection

Posted on February 24, 2016

I was very excited when, earlier this year, Allie from Indiesew got in touch to ask if I would be interested in being included in the Indiesew Spring Collection. Of course I said yes! It would be very exciting to see my pattern as part of a collection, and also see how Allie would go about styling the Rushcutter for the release.

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How to : Draft a waistband for a wrap skirt

Posted on February 19, 2016

As you may have seen, last week I showed you how to draft a wrap skirt. The post started to get a little long, so I decided that I would leave the waistband for a seperate tutorial - that I am writing today!

The waistband required for a wrap skirt, is one of the most basic to make of all. It is rectangular in shape (with no shaping or darts) and is secured by a waist tie. Depending how long the ties are, you can either secure it with a bow at the front or back of the skirt.

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 I’m Emily and welcome to my little corner of the internet, where I share my passion for the art of pattern making and sewing. Sit down with a cup of tea, and enjoy!


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The Maker's Glossary : How to pivot a pattern

Posted on February 16, 2016

Today I am working on finishing up the wrap skirt tutorial that I posted last week, and I realised that it is about time to start some kind of glossary on this site. There are many techniques that I use in almost every pattern I cut, and would make much more sense if I could just link straight to the technique I'm talking about - rather than writing the same thing over and over (which will give me time to write more new tutorials!)

Recently, I was doing a freelance project for some lovely women that needed a pattern made. They came into my studio to discuss the project, and while they were here, they asked what my favourite pattern making tool is. I instantly picked up my tracing wheel and my stiletto, and said I couldn't choose between them. They are definitely the tools I reach for the most when I'm pattern making, and they really do make some of the processes and techniques used in pattern making much easier. So I thought I'd share one of those techniques today, which is pivoting a pattern piece. 

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How to : Draft a Wrap Skirt

Posted on February 9, 2016

Today I am continuing on with The Skirt Series by showing you (as the title suggests) how to draft a wrap skirt! It is a nice and easy pattern to draft, and an even easier pattern to sew, as it doesn't need a zip or buttons (just one button hole).

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Pattern Hack : Rushcutter View A with Buttons

Recently, a customer got in touch and said that she wanted to make the Rushcutter View A (the version with sleeves), but would like to add buttons to the back, like View B, but wanted to check if it was an easy adjustment to make to the pattern. 

It is a nice and easy adjustment to make, and it is a tutorial I have been meaning to create forever, so I thought this was a sign it was about time I got around to it, as I am sure she is not the only one who would like to make this adjustment!

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Finished project : The Lou Box top by Sew DIY

Posted on January 26, 2016

Late last year, Beth from Sew DIY and I had the great idea of doing a little pattern swap. We had been swooning over each others patterns on Instagram, so thought it was about time we did something about it. 

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Talking about: Planning and goal setting

Posted on January 22, 2016

If you have been following along with me lately you may remember that I have been talking about my desire to be little more open about the struggles as well as the little victories of my day-to-day life as a very new small business owner. Since getting all your lovely responses on the topic, I have been busting to get started, as I feel there is a huge amount of value in this exercise. For me, it will provide an opportunity to consolidate my thoughts and ideas on a topic, keeping a record of it for the future (when I will most probably read over it and cringe), and hopefully for you it will provide inspiration and food for thought - or hopefully, some encouragement for your journey. 

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How to draft box pleats - Part 2

Posted on January 20, 2016

If you are a regular to this blog you will know that earlier in the week I published a tutorial about box pleats - specifically, how to insert box pleats into the centre front (or centre back) of a garment. I was planning to also show you how to put box pleats in other parts of a garment, but the post got a little long, so I thought I'd save it for today's post.

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How to draft box pleats

Posted on January 18, 2016

My transition back into work mode, after a much needed break, has been a little slower than anticipated. I have been concentrating on many things already this year - filling in my calendar and working out a plan of attack for 2016, catching up on emails that came through over the holiday period, and madly sampling a couple of new patterns. But.. when it comes to my blog, I have been procrastinating! Today though, I had it in my diary that I would focus on getting back onto blog content, and although it is a little painful (as I seem to have forgotten a few things over the break... What's that font called again? What line weight do I normally do my illustrations in? So it is taking me afr longer than usual to even get started) here I am, getting the blog back on track, as I have a HUGE amount of content planned for you this year, so I better get on with it, before it suddenly becomes February! 

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Talking about : Transparency - The Response

Posted on January 7, 2016

Happy New Year! I hope you had a lovely holiday period and had a chance to relax. I had a lovely Christmas with my family, and then enjoyed some much needed down time. Lots of reading and movie watching! Now it's back to the studio to get the ball rolling for 2016, which I find very exciting, as I have a lot planned for this year. 

In one of my last posts of the year, I discussed my desire to be more transparent in my business - showing more of what goes on behind the scenes, in the hope of potentially enlightening or inspiring others who are interested in this journey. I asked what you thought, and was so pleased with the response! 

Here are some of the responses, which I thought I would include as they may help you too, if you are on a similar journey, or a thinking about similar things to me! 

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Talking about : Transparency

Posted on December 23, 2015

My working pace has slowed down as the end of the year fast approaches, and the pace of my personal life has increased as I madly get prepared for Christmas (I left it to the last minute as usual). So there will be no new tutorials until the new year. I wanted to take this opportunity to post about something a little different today, giving you a little peak at what is going on behind the scenes at In the Folds (and chat about the potential of hearing a little bit more in the future).

I am spending a lot of time at the moment thinking about transparency, and it's place in business. Specifically, its place in my business. When I had the crazy (but great) idea to go into business, transparency was something I really wanted ingrained in my practice. Transparency about my thoughts, values and processes (and maybe even more).

Though, that is much easier said than done. Six months into my business venture, and I have revealed very little about what really goes on on a daily basis (okay, there was the time I told you I was eating rice cakes for dinner on instagram). There has been no sign of the struggles (and there have been many), the thought processes or even the small wins (and thankfully there have been a few of those too) that have come along the way. 

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Checking patterns : Curved seams

Hello there, I hope you are having a lovely lead up to the Christmas period, and life isn't too stressful getting organised for the silly season (my techniques is to totally ignore it, and seems to be doing the trick!).

Yesterday, I showed you how to draft a fit and flare skirt. Before going ahead and cutting out your skirt pattern though, there is one thing you must do... Check your patterns! For some reason this lesson took a little while to sink into my brain (although my pattern making teachers at university said it constantly) and I would just want to jump into the cutting and sewing. I paid for this mistake a number of times, so now I check my patterns religiously.

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How to : Draft a fit and flare skirt

December 16, 2015

Over the last couple of weeks I have been writing blog posts about drafting skirts - from drafting a block to your own measurementsadding the correct markings to the pattern and adding seam allowance. Since the block was completed, I have been showing you ways that you can manipulate the pattern to create your own designs.

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Throwback Thursday : How to draft a hem facing

Posted on December 10, 2015

It's Thursday (somehow another week is coming to an end), which means it's time for a Throwback Thursday post! As I am still solidly in skirt mode from the skirt series I've been sharing with you lately, I thought it would be a good time to talk hem facings.

WHAT IS A HEM FACING?

A hem facing is a seperate pattern piece that is used to finish the hem of a garment (rather than just turning up the hem as you often do when hemming).

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Talking about pockets (again)

Posted on December 9, 2015

If you have been following this blog (or my Instagram) for longer than two minutes or made The Rushcutter, you will probably know about my love (okay, okay, you can call it an obsession, if you like) for pockets.

A couple of months ago, I met the lovely Kate from Sewing with Kate. As it turned out, she lives about 15 minutes away from me, and we have a whole lot in common (yay to finding sewing friends on Instagram), including a love of pockets. 

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How to make a waist sash

Posted on December 8, 2015

Last week, we pretty much finished sewing our Rushcutters! All we've got to do now is create a the waist sash (if you want a waist sash for your Rushcutter. It's totally optional!) 

Creating a waist sash is a really simple way to totally transform a silhouette. I decided to include a waist sash in the Rushcutter pattern to give sewers more options for their pattern.

If you haven't got the pattern, don't worry, keep reading, I'll tell you what measurements I used so you can make a waist sash for any pattern you like!

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The skirt series - Have you been following along?

Posted on December 5, 2015

Have you been following along with the skirt series I have been running for the last few weeks?

I have just put all the tutorials in one place, so they're easy to find if you would like to complete the series step by step.

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How to : Draft side pockets

Posted on December 4, 2015

Last week, I showed you how to draft in-seam pockets (and included a pattern for your downloading pleasure if you want a pocket quickly). In-seam pockets are perfect if you don't want to make a feature of your pockets, but want them for their function. 

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How to : Add panel lines to a skirt pattern

Posted on December 3, 2015

Panel lines are a great way to add interest to a design. There are countless variations and it is a way to include more than one fabric in your design if you would like. I really struggle to keep a design limited to one fabric, so often add a contrast fabric with panel lines. Panel lines are also a good way to eliminate darts, without losing the fitted shape of the garment.

Now that our skirt blocks are done, it's time to have a play! In today's post I will show you the basics of creating panel lines on a pattern. This same principle can be used on all different patterns, so keep reading, even if it's a bodice or dress you're planning to add panels to. 

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How to : Sew a rolled hem with a standard foot

Posted on December 2, 2015

There are many ways you could choose to finish the hem of your Rushcutter.

You could use the hem facing, just like I did for VIEW A, you could use a strip of bias binding, or like me, you could do a rolled hem.

You can do a really narrow rolled hem, which can be a beautiful finish on fabrics like organza or chiffon, but I went for something a little wider as I'd say most people aren't sewing their Rushcutters from chiffon! This method will work with a narrower hem, if you want one.

I know there are a bazillion great machine feet which can help you get all kinds of finishes, but I do things the old school way, as a lot of my learning was done on an industrial machine without any fancy feet. So in tofay's tutorial, I will show you how to sew a rolled hem with a standard machine foot.

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How to finish an armhole with bias binding

Posted on December 1, 2015

At this point in the Rushcutter Sew-along, our Rushcutter's are really starting to look like Rushcutters!

In today's post, we will be finishing the armholes with bias binding. I am a huge fan of binding as a finish, it gives you a lovely clean finish, without the extra bulk of a facing. 

Even if you are not sewing The Rushcutter, I am sure you will find this tutorial useful for projects to come!

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How to : Join the bodice to the dress

Posted on November 30, 2015

If you are following along, you will know that over the last few weeks I have been guiding you through the process of sewing a Rushcutter dress. 

Today we will be joining the body of the dress to the bodice and your Rushcutter will really take shape. 

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How to draft a shaped waistband

Posted on November 27, 2015

Last week, I showed you how to draft a straight waistband for your skirt block (it will also work for other garments, such as trousers) as part of The Skirt Series I have been running for the last couple of weeks. Today, I will be showing you how to draft a shaped waistband. 

Before starting, though, I'd like to a little re-cap of a couple of things (which you may remember, if you read the previous waistband post).

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Throwback Thursday: How to draft in-seam pockets

Posted on November 26, 2015

I love pockets. I really do. I like to put pockets anywhere I can as they are oh so handy for phones and keys, but also very comfortable for hands!

This is a tutorial to help you with "in-seam" pockets - a pocket that is hidden... surprise, surprise... in a seam of your garment (normally the side seam). Yesterday I showed you how to sew in-seam pockets (with french seams), so today I thought I'd show you how to draft the pattern piece as it is a very quick and easy process (both pattern cutting the pockets and sewing them) and once you have a pattern you are happy with, you will be able to use it over and over again, with minimal changes.

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How to: Sew in-seam pockets with french seams

Posted on November 25, 2015

Over the past two days I have shown you how to prepare the bodice of your Rushcutter - View B. At this point we are up to putting in the in-seam pockets.

I just LOVE pockets, so I find a way to put them in pretty much every garment I make. Even a soft floaty dress like my Rushcutter.

If you're not as partial to a pocket as I am, you can simply attach the FRONT to the SIDE PANELS, ignoring the pocket all together. But if you are a fan of the pocket, well continue on with me today and I'll show you how to get a lovely finish with a french seam. And this method will work for other garments, not just The Rushcutter!

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How to : Finish a neckline with bias binding

Posted on November 24, 2015

Binding necklines and armholes can create a lovely clean and professional finish. It minimises bulk and can be a perfect finish for lightweight or transparent fabrics that you would be able to see a facing through.

Earlier in The Rushcutter sew-along, I showed you how to make your own bias binding, so head back there if you think you would prefer to make your own binding instead of buying the pre-made stuff. 

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The Rushcutter sew-along: View B begins!

Posted on November 23, 2015

Today it's finally time to jump into The Rushcutter - View B sew-along, after concluding the sew-along for View A last week. 

I decided to construct this version with french seams, so that I could offer an alternative finish for those sewers who don't own overlockers, and because French seams are oh-so-nice! If you are not making The Rushcutter, but would like to learn how to sew a french seam, then keep reading. 

French seams are a good choice for you (even if you do have an overlocker), if your fabric is light to mid-weight. You get a lovely clean finish, which gives your garments a really high-end look. If you would prefer normal seams, just follow along, remembering to put right sides together (not wrong sides together, which is how you go about creating a french seam).

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Finished project : The Rushcutter

Posted on November 22, 2015

At last, after about four weeks of blog posts, I have completed the sew-along for The Rushcutter (view A)! Before getting on with view B, I thought I'd finally show you some pics of my finished Rushcutter.

I have made so many versions of this dress, throughout the design process, but this one is my absolute favourite. It is an easy one to just throw on and look put together, and I can easily dress it up or down. It has already become an absolute wardrobe staple!

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The Rushcutter sew-along: The finishing touches

Posted on November 20, 2015

So we are almost there! By now your Rushcutter should be really be looking like a dress. All we have got left to do is to finish the neckline and do the hems.

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Throwback Thursday: Adding volume to a pattern

Posted on November 19, 2015

Over the past weeks I have been showing you how to draft a skirt block, as part of The Skirt Series.

Now that it is complete, it is time to start making the pattern your own. 

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How to sew an invisible zip

Posted on November 18, 2015

Zip time! And before some of you run away screaming, please just give it a go with me. I promise they're not that scary. 

Invisible zips really are the easiest zips to sew, and if you go nice and slow, you can get a really nice finish that I promise you will be proud of.

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